Note to Bolivia

Christmas was a highlight
The sheer fact that I could be in Bolivia but still around so many people I love was impressive.    How a simple idea, floated over 12 months ago, turned into me being around some of my favourite people in the world… I don’t know.    People must like me or really like Bolivia. 

Anna did actually arrive on Christmas day with loads of Marks and Spencers goodies intact (except for little bit of pesto leakage on her white cardy – who brings a white cardy to Bolivia anyway!). Picking her up from the airport on time was a treat that no one believed possible, as were her Christmas mince pies.  And the pot luck feast that awaited us at the hostal was better than anyone could have hoped for.  Secret santa delivered a much-needed poncho to Bevan and a scarf and diary to me – both welcome additions to my pack.  The day and night went on with the usual Christmas day drinks spread over hours and then ultimately led to a pretty brain-dead Boxing Day.  We farewelled the Anaconda for the very last time, bucket and all, but thankfully it was just a ‘see you again soon’ to the Otter who will join us again post carnival.

 The little incident
The next move was to Postosi, highest city in the world and at 4,090 m is higher than Mount Cook.  For Beavs and I this trip brought about our first taste of a South American scam involving our camera, iPod and some cash but hey, who comes to South America and doesn’t visit a police station at least once.  And what a visit it was!  ¨You want to report a robbery? Why?¨….hmmm.  Surely this was a simple request and just the standard gringo question? There were handmade posters on the walls picturing criminals to look out for.  They reminded me of collages we made in highschool detailing the earth’s crust or volcanic rocks.  There was one typewriter, one computer and just two men who knew how to use them.  But after half a day we walked out triumphant, the stamped and signed police report firmly gripped in hand. 

Oruro 2010
Yes we went to Oruro for New Years.  Not a normal stop on the gringo trail but a unique and somewhat authentic way to spend New Years.  It didn’t really matter where we were, as long as the bar served booze.  And it nearly didn’t.  So out of fear that we wouldn’t have a drink by midnight we agreed that a bottle of tequila would do, and it did us. 

I think the rest of the bar were maybe just on the lemonades and waters (or perhaps nil by mouth in hope of avoiding the toilets).  There was a whole lot of Bolivian style line dancing that resembled my moves from the 1996  Form 2 St Peters Social, interspersed with some of our own superb tequila-induced moves ofcourse.   Anna and Gavin were all over the floor/on the floor and we think we were the only ones to actually count down.   We rocked it.  No regrets Oruro.  

 La Paz in a fruit bowl
Out of Oruro and into the fruit bowl.   No matter how many pictures of La Paz you’ve seen, it still doesn’t prepare you for how cool it really does look.  It’s a city in a fruit bowl.  Colourful, packed and stunning in its own way.  On a clear day the snow-capped mountains surrounding the bowl only add to its beauty and remind you that you really are up in the clouds.  The food was good and a welcome change from Oruro’s cuisine.  Saying goodbye to the first sister, no so good.

Isla Del Sol
From La Paz we went to Lake Titicaca, one of the highest lakes in the world.  We walked for four hours from  Copacabana to get the boat over to Isla Del Sol, an island in the lake.  Sunburnt, tired, hungry and tad a grumpy but once we were on Isla Del Sol there was no complaining.  Dinner may have taken two hours but you just can’t complain.   The shower was cold but you still just can’t complain.  I’ve never been to a resort type of island with views and stunning water and all that so this was a first.  A pretty cool first given there aren’t really any resorts on the island, just your normal hostels, at normal Bolivian hostel prices ($NZ 6).  I can only hope it stays that way.  Such a beautiful place with donkeys as the only form of transport.  Tip: honeymooners should go here (KA/Brody?).

Sorata
¨Go to Sorata, for the pancakes and the bat cave.¨ My lingering piece of travel advice to anyone who asks.   ¨Stay a while.¨  When you find banana/chocolate pancakes cooked with care and served with good coffee, stay a while and that’s what we did.  Sorata is a peaceful little town with plenty of hiking…and a bat cave complete with pedal boat.  I thought I was gona hate the cave, freak out and look like a silly girl: dark, wet and bats isn’t really me.  But once in there it felt like this was exactly what Rainbows End had modelled the log flume ride on and I couldn’t get enough of it.

Salt flats
I’m still making my mind up about the salt flats. ‘Tours’ and being told to take ‘pictures’ at certain spots just isn’t really my idea of travel.  This coupled by the fact that Bevan and I had our first belt of a belly bug, I can now safely say that I completely understand exactly what diarrhea is and what Bevan’s stomach lining looks like.  The things you learn.

It was a truly beautiful, unique and changing landscape for the three days we were out there, you don’t get many chances to see such diversity.    But the end of the salt flats also meant my last farewell, to Anna.  The end of the moving and travelling and the end of being around whanau.  Booo.